YELAPA - More Kickback and More Real Mexico Than Boca?
- Jerry Cederstrom
- May 25
- 4 min read
A Hidden South Shore Village Near Boca de Tomatlan & Puerto Vallarta
Although some would disagree with this statement, as Yelapa is a bit more tourist-oriented, its remoteness, domestic heritage, and unique history might give it the edge for those seeking traditional, authentic Mexico. Regardless, Yelapa is a unique beach village not to be missed and is easy to reach with Boca de Tomatlan Panga tour operators or a dedicated Yelapa water taxi.
It has its own little bay/inlet off the Bay of Banderas, similar to Boca de Tomatlan, which is the easiest point of comparison. It is about 45 minutes by Panga from Boca.
A Traditional Fishing Village on Mexico’s South Shore
A colorful and once traditional fishing village tucked along the Riviera Nayarit, Yelapa takes the unique village vibe up another notch, as no cars are allowed. The only modes of transportation on the narrow winding streets are ATV’s, carts, donkeys, horses, and walking.
Yelapa’s Unique Indigenous History & Real Mexico Culture
Yelapa has a unique history. It is part of a much larger indigenous community (comunidad indígena in Spanish), made up of about 25,000 square hectares - one of the few remaining places where the original inhabitants still reside on, own, and control their own lands.
The El Tuito/Nayarit River and smaller tributaries empty into the sea here. Yelapa’s name is said to mean “where two rivers meet the sea.”
About 1,400 Mexicans live here, spreading back from the seaside village into the river valley. Yelapa was initially settled by four or five families who came down from the mountain village of Chacala above Yelapa.
There is no private ownership of land by outsiders here. Families may occupy and cultivate land, but outside investors may not buy land — one reason Yelapa remains largely untouched by large resort development.
The formal governing council for the community is in Chacala, reachable from El Tuito by steep inland roadways. Residents more commonly travel by trail, horseback, or seasonal dirt road.
The community includes Yelapa and the villages stretching along the South Shore from Boca de Tomatlan. Modern conveniences are relatively recent, and Yelapa can often feel like an island outside of time and space.
The History of Yelapa & Francisco Cortés
The first recorded contact with outsiders was a military party led by Francisco Cortés, cousin to the famous conqueror of Mexico, in 1524.
The natives pleaded with Cortés to remove his army from their lands, explaining they were peaceful people who only desired friendly relations. Cortés was reportedly moved by their hospitality and laid down his arms.
Approaching Yelapa by Panga – One of Mexico’s Most Scenic Boat Rides
The bay is dotted with water taxis and fishing boats while lush green hills surround the sparkling water. On the far side of the bay sit traditional palapa huts hidden beneath tropical palms.
Approaching Yelapa by boat/Panga from Boca de Tomatlan is one of the most scenic rides along the Puerto Vallarta South Shore.
The main beach area sits to the left, with colorful umbrellas lining the sand and numerous restaurants and cafes overlooking the water.
Why Yelapa Still Feels Unspoiled
Yelapa has largely avoided the large-scale resort and hotel development that transformed parts of Puerto Vallarta.
No high-rise concrete buildings interrupt the natural setting, helping preserve the relaxed atmosphere and authentic feel of the village.
Visitors should also stop at the Yelapa Cultural Museum, opened in 2019 after years of work by dedicated curators. The museum highlights the resilience and traditions of the community and includes:
Archaeological artifacts believed to date to the Aztec period
Historical objects donated by Yelapa’s founding families and expats
Stories about the migration from the mountains to the coast for fishing
Fishing eventually proved easier than mountain farming, encouraging families to settle permanently by the sea.
Things To Do in Yelapa, Mexico
Relax on the Beach
Lounge on the beach with a piña colada or strawberry margarita in hand while enjoying one of the most peaceful beaches near Puerto Vallarta.
Visit the Yelapa Waterfalls
Hike to the town’s smaller waterfall (about 15 minutes) or continue farther inland to the larger waterfall (about 1.5 hours).
Explore the Village Streets
Wander Yelapa’s narrow cobblestone streets lined with local homes, cafes, shops, and tropical vegetation.
Adventure Activities
Go:
Paragliding
Snorkeling
Horseback riding
Paddleboarding
Water taxi touring
Dining & Cafes in Yelapa
Yelapa offers numerous dining spots, beach bars, and hip cafes serving both locals and visitors.
The Famous Yelapa Pies
One of Yelapa’s most famous traditions is its legendary pies.
According to local lore, the original and best pies were made by Chelly Rodríguez, who has been baking for nearly three decades. The tradition began with her mother and continues today.
Rodríguez rises at 5 a.m. each day to begin baking, producing seven to twelve pies daily, which she sells directly from a Tupperware container on the beach. Over time, others have continued the pie tradition as well.
Getting to Yelapa from Boca de Tomatlan
Stephanie’s / Estefany Boat Panga Tours offers trips from Boca de Tomatlan to Yelapa.
More information can be found at:
Other Boca tour operators also provide Yelapa water taxi and South Shore beach tours.
Private Tours with Villa La Sirena
If your travels include a stay at Villa La Sirena, check with Rafael, the onsite manager. If his schedule permits, he can host you on a private tour and help design experiences that match your interests.
Comments