Raicilla - the unknown in the triad of Agave spirits. Rising in popularity - Tequila sippers – you're missing out!

This agave-based Mexican spirit is much more diverse than many drinkers realize.  It’s often given the title of Mexican or Hillbilly Moonshine, but that disrespect is changing.  Raicilla, although made for hundreds of years, many of those with the dubious moniker of moonshine, gained respect in 2019 when it received a “Denomination of Origin” (DO) from the government.

It becomes part of our Blog posts as the state of Jalisco is the primary location that can distill per the DO, and the area just east of Boca de Tomatlan has numerous distilleries.  The Villa La Sirena staff and friends have visited Rancho El Cono and its accompanying distillery, Don Chalio.  It’s an interesting visit with great hospitality.

Don Chalio is close to El Tuito.  Smaller Raicilla distillers have their plantations.  During the rainy season, they shut down because of access to the agaves on the hillsides.

Don Chalio plantation

Although the black sheep of the triad, since its distilleries are Boca close, we are giving it the first spot in the triad.  It certainly doesn’t have the esteem of its big brother, Tequila, the second in the triad and the most famous.  Tequila can only be distilled from the Blue Agave.  Its primary home is the red volcanic soils around the city of Tequila.  Third in the triad is Mezcal, which can come from around 30 to 40 different varieties of agave and many different certified areas.

Many remote villages produce their spirit without any recognition from the government. Typically, a no-label brand is probably from an unknown indigenous agave species. In years past, it was sold in old Coke bottles. Not uncommon for the Villa La Sirena staff to trade some Jack D for these “creations”.

What is the difference in these three agave-based spirits?  Boils down to these: 

• Region designated by the Denomination of Origin.  Each region has different soils, elevation, water, and flora. 

• Agave species – somewhat based on region 

• Method of processing and distillation 

Raicilla is primarily from the state of Jalisco, with a disputed location in Nayarit.  There are two regions within Jalisco: coastal and mountain.  It has a traditional method of processing dating back hundreds of years.  The locations close to Villa La Sirena are family operations distilling for many decades. 

Mezcal must be produced in Mexico in one of the certified states, which include Oaxaca, San Luis Potosí, Durango, Zacatecas, and Guerrero, with the vast majority produced in Oaxaca. There are three categories: mezcal, mezcal artesanal, and mezcal ancestral, each defined by the way the spirit is made.

Mezcal, often referred to as Industrial, is the quickest, efficient, and commercially produced in large volumes. This mescal won’t have the nuances of the others.

Artesanal Mezcal is slightly more modern, allowing cooking in ovens and fermentation tanks made of stone or concrete.  Mechanical milling is also permitted.  Distillation can be in copper kettle stills, clay pots, or various types of montera.

Ancestral Mezcal is the most ancient — it is cooked in earthen pits.  Fermentation happens in wood or clay, tree trunks, and distillation in a clay pot or wooden montera.  Milling is done by hand or using a tahona: a large, heavy stone wheel that crushes the roasted agave, separating the pulp from the juice. 

Tequila is solely defined by the Blue Agave and numerous regions, with the state of Jalisco most prominent.  Although its history and processing dates back like its cousins, Mezcal and Raicilla, its popularity has demanded more modern processing methods.  Also, it is typically no longer traditional family operations, but company businesses.

The Don Chalio distillery uses the artesanal method mentioned above with a wooden monster, as shown below.  Tradition dictates using a sugar cane tube to transport the Raicilla to a container.  At this stage, it’s about 100 proof before adding water to control the proof.  It is then aged for a period to determine its type.  Some locations do a double-distilled raicilla, which is exclusive to the artesanal process. 

Don Chalio distillery

Raicilla is typically bottled at 80-110 proof, with 90 proof the norm. Don Chalio and others around El Tuito produce Raicilla de la Costa (Coastal).  It has a distinct flavor profile with light floral characteristics.  The other region is Raicilla de la Sierra (Mountain) with a more robust, earthy flavor.  All Raicilla has a subtle smokiness, but a stronger acidic, fruity, and floral taste than either Mezcal or Tequila.

Raicilla has been around for hundreds of years, and its origin is not clear.  One historian believes it dates back to the 17^th century and started in San Sebastián, then a mining town.  See our previous blog post about the Villa coffee, and that location was for the Villa coffee at one time.  After mining ceased, the area became noted for its coffee bean production.

Raicilla remained primarily as a clandestine entity until the early 2000s, when it became commercialized.  The story goes that under Spanish rule, spirits made from the agave plant were taxed, so the wise and/or clever/unscrupulous Mexicans told the bureaucrats they were using the roots, not the pinas, the heart of the agave.  The name Raicilla translates to “little root” in Spanish.  They got away with the ruse for many years.

What’s left – drink it.  Various imbibing suggestions exist.  Some say neat, others say cold/on the rocks.  A noted suggestion that certainly falls into our Blog mission statement of unusual, weird, and off-the-wall, it could be served with a rim of sal de gusano (worm salt) on a sliced green tomato with a dash of sal de gusano on the side.  More frequently with an orange slice, which is less on the weird meter. 

Mezcal Mexican drink with orange slices and worm salt (Pic Credits: Freepik)

Curious to taste Raicilla right where it’s made? Join us at Villa La Sirena for a sip, a story, or even a distillery visit. Villa la Sirena is located in Boca de Tomatlan, Mexico, a short trip from Puerto Vallarta.

Follow our blog for more offbeat local finds, hidden flavors, and Boca experiences you won’t want to miss. We have blog schedule suggestions for consuming Agave-based spirits.